Fashion trends: SPFW N55

The N55 edition of São Paulo Fashion Week (May 25-28) saw local brands showing their 2023/24 summer collections alongside see-now-buy-now ranges. As with previous editions, this season featured emerging talents and established brands who value local culture as inspiration. With the theme Origins and Resignifying, the event aimed to highlight who we are and what unites us as a creative collective.

Highlights

1 Project Ponto Firme

Promoting social transformation based on crochet, this project led by stylist Gustavo Silvestre offers professional training to and generates income for ex-prisoners. Here Ponto Firme introduced new creative technologies through laser cutting, inspired by AI imagery. The collection was presented at Copan in front of the Rider store, where it was possible to customise Rider sandals with accessories created by the Ponto Firme Project.

2 Oil Palm

The brand from Bahia, designed by stylists Hisan Silva and Pedro Batalha, presented its Cor da Pele collection in partnership with Havaianas, with the aim of breaking stereotypes and redefining beauty standards. According to Hisan "it's not just about fashion, but a powerful message of self-love and acceptance".

Catwalks

3 #DeepDive

In line with the #Mermaidcore trend that has 224m views on TikTok, this initiative drews on the bottom of the sea as inspiration to add a touch of fantasy and escapism during a period of uncertainty.  Open-weave netting and bright hues in blush and violet tones were the main themes.

4 #ElementedElegance

Aligned with WGSN’s Womenswear Forecast S/S 23: Soul Space, this trend unites a simplified look with rustic and handcrafted details - think fitted silhouettes, fringes and crochet. Earthy tones were a favorite here, balanced with off-white and black. Featured at Weider Silveiro and Marina Bitú, there was an Afro-Brazilian reference, with local culture at the heart of the theme.

5 #GetYourGreens

Acid and neon greens proved their commercial value by adding a touch of novelty and freshness - at retail S/S 23, green has seen continuous growth, now representing 9.1% of the mix. The pastel tone chosen by Weider Silveiro responds to continuing consumer interest in calming tones.

6 #FloralBurst

Striking, ample and maximalist florals were one of the main trends in prints for S/S 23 In Sao Paulo  aligning with our Collection Review: Women's Print & Graphics S/S 23 report. Martins and Apartamento 03  added digital blur effects (#SoftFocus) and water splash effects (#DeepDive) combining bold colors with a contrasting background, such as black or vibrant pink.

7 #Checkerboard

With the jovial footprint of the #Kidult trend, checks add fun and dynamism, working in multicoloured tones, combined with different icons, such as the heart, daisy and star. For a more mature audience, classic geometric black and white stands out.

Street Style

8 #Western

With 95m views on TikTok, the Coastal Cowgirl trend has emerged on the streets of São Paulo as a key aesthetic. Moving beyond festival looks (#FestivalFashion), #Western themes were incorporated through a lens of  #GenderInclusive styling and provide a new opportunity to update key items such as the midi skirt and shirt.

9 #DarkNights

Blending subversive (#GothLite) and racing (#RaceRevival) references, dark aesthetics remain a top choice among young street style crowds. Heavy boots, leather jackets and black stone jeans were the main directions in key items, combined with a cropped T-shirt or basic tank top.

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